IACUC Learning Module - Swine

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HANDLING TECHNIQUES

The intelligence of pigs should never be underestimated. Many behaviorists believe the pig to be smarter than the dog and pigs are, without doubt, the "Einsteins" of the farm.

The key to working well with pigs is to use rewards, never punishment, and to be calm, relaxed and patient. Pigs can be trained to take oral medications, stand quietly in slings for experiments, and to roll over and present their bellies for examination of incision sites. Pigs become socialized to humans and trained for routine tasks by using calm voices, gentle handling and the judicious use of food rewards such as canned cat food, vegetables or fruit. When acclimating a new pig, speak softy and move slowly. Avoid slapping or prodding the pig. If the pig allows contact, gently scratch its back. After a few days, as they become accustomed to you, scratch the heavy jowls and neck area.

Whenever possible, let a pig become familiar with a transport device, new cage, restraint sling, etc. by placing a food treat within and allowing the pig to take its own time to enter and eat the treat. After only once, maybe twice, they will readily enter to get the treat.

Pigs may refuse to enter a dark place or cross a shadow, drain grate, a door threshold, or an area where the floor color or texture changes (their vision is not that great and they perceive these darkened areas to be holes and wisely, want to avoid falling). Directing light to the area where you want pigs to move may help, or turn off the light in the area you want them to leave and turn on the light in the area you want them to enter.

Small pigs, less than 30 kg, which have been conditioned to humans and to their environment, may be moved short distances by putting a dog leash around their neck and using a bowl of cat food to coax them in the direction you wish them to go. Another method is to coax the pig into a plastic dog kennel, or other transport cage.

The easiest way to move large pigs, or small pigs who refuse to follow a food treat, is to use panels to block the way they are not to go. However, pigs will attempt to root and may lift these panels up with great force, often directly into the face of the person holding the panel! Therefore, be certain that human handlers watch how they are holding the panels. Solid pieces of plywood or plastic work well. Solid walls are a must, since the pig will not recognize an open, woven galvanized fence panel as a blockade and will continue to push against it.

If handling a group of pigs, try to handle the most dominant pig first, since the other pigs will be more submissive when you get to them.

Pigs show little herding instinct. When frightened, they may or may not scatter, so it is difficult to predict how the group will move about the room. As the group becomes more excited, there is an increased likelihood that a pig will run full tilt into one of the human handlers, or, attempt to root and throw a handler to the floor. If the group becomes excited because of your handling, leave the room and let things calm down before continuing with your job. You will only make matters worse if you continue to stress an already excited group of pigs.

Pigs approach a sitting or kneeling person more readily than a person who is standing.

Pigs have their eyes placed well back on their head which gives them wide-angle vision so they can see behind themselves.

RESTRAINT and the RISKS of HANDLING STRESS

When holding small pigs, it is best to restrain just as you would a dog, rather than the common agricultural practice of holding upside down with the rear legs.

Restraint during experimental procedures is easily accomplished with training a pig to tolerate a "Panepinto sling."

The deep layer of insulating fat prevents efficient heat dissipation. If pigs become upset by inept handlers, sudden deaths may occur! Any pig that must be restrained or transported for any length of time (>15 minutes) should have its body temperature monitored. It is a veterinary emergency if the temperature rises above 104 F/ 40 C, and requires treatment such as cold water enemas, spraying the body with cool water, or placing ice around the ears and head. Please read the section on "Malignant Hyperthermia" which is later in these materials.

IDENTIFICATION

Pigs have a simple stomach and lack the ability to ferment fiber. Therefore, pigs cannot digest fibrous plant material like the cow, sheep or horse. Instead, they eat feeds containing easily digestible starches and simple sugars, very much like man. Also like man, pigs are omnivorous and will eat various forms of meat, vegetables and fruit. Formulated diets from commercial suppliers, based largely on alfalfa meal, are often fed in an animal facility; whereas feed composition may be more varied in an agricultural setting and will usually consist largely of grain products. Adult pigs maintained in an animal facility should not be fed more than 2-3% of their body weight, since they are not being raised for meat production. In general, pigs less than three months old should be fed a "starter" diet, higher in protein and lower in fiber. After three months of age, pigs should be switched to a maintenance diet with higher amounts of fiber. If the sow is pregnant or lactating, a special diet is needed to provide more energy and nutrients.

A new feed needs to be slowly introduced and the best method is to gradually mix a new food with the "old" one, in ever increasing quantities until the animal has adapted.

If a pig stops eating, or has diarrhea, back up one day, i.e., increase the percentage of the "old" feed.

Pigs may be fed the calculated amount either once a day, or probably better for the pig, divided into two feedings, morning and late afternoon. Except in very hot weather or when ill, pigs will usually display some interest in food. Therefore, immediately report to the veterinary staff any pig which shows a loss of appetite. Pigs tend to eat more when they have to compete with other pigs for food. Pigs become excited at feeding time and squeal or grunt until fed. After eating, they quiet down and often doze until the next feeding.

Feed in unopened bags must be stored off the floor, on either shelves or pallets; open bags of feed are to be placed in plastic containers with lids and labeled.

Toxic compounds such as paint, pour-on insecticides, or antifreeze MUST NEVER be kept near feed, or in feed storage areas.

Pigs produce 0.5 - 2.5 kg of feces each day and feces are soft but still with form (not diarrhea). Pig feces are particularly odoriferous and persons should wear plastic boots and latex gloves to prevent the stench from staying with them throughout the day!

Despite common beliefs, pigs prefer a clean environment (they wallow in mud to cool themselves but if given the choice of mud or sprinkler systems, they will elect for the clean water). If given enough room, pigs will defecate in one corner of a pen and sleep in a different corner.

Water is best provided by an automatic watering system since pigs will refuse to drink from soiled water containers and tend to overturn bowls or pans which are placed on the floor. Pigs need water ad libitum (at all times) and periods of as little as 12 hours of deprivation may lead to neurologic symptoms (often called salt poisoning). Some experts even suggest that before surgery, water be withheld only 4-6 hours, however UAC has never had problems with removing water the night before surgery.

The amount of urine excreted each day ranges from two to six liters. The urine is usually clear and yellowish in color.

The modern domestic pig has been bred into a nearly hairless animal. Although they have lots of fat for insulation, pigs don't tolerate drafts and need to be slowly acclimated to temperatures below 70o F / 21o C.  At these cooler temperatures, pigs should NEVER be gotten wet from hoses used for cleaning. Pigs in outside housing areas should be provided with straw bedding whenever temperatures are apt to drop below 65o F/ 18o C. If the facility is using or raising baby pigs, temperature is even more critical. Until they are weaned, piglets require a temperature range of 75-85o F/ 24-29o C, at the level of the piglets, to prevent deaths from chilling.

Humidity is not usually a factor for farm type pigs but the miniature breeds need at least 40-70%. Low humidity may cause the skin to crack and peel, which may be treated by daily application of topical moisturizing agents such as mineral oil.

A mister system is useful for pigs housed outdoors in summer heat, but the pen should be designed so that the pigs can choose to either be dry or under the water spray. In Arizona, one must guard against an animal being sunburned and shade must be provided.

Pigs are rooting animals and use their snouts to get under and push up and they can be most destructive to wall and floor joints, doors, and cages. Bored pigs will destroy their environment and boredom will increase fights and chewing on each  another.  Basketballs, bowling balls, rawhide chew toys, hanging chains and thick ropes are useful toys for occupying pigs and due to their intelligence and curiosity an important component of their housing. These items should be disinfected at least once every two weeks and ALWAYS disinfected before they are placed in another pig's pen.

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